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Goner Message Board / Memphis / Buying a house in 38104
Posted: Sep 15, 2009 11:14 pm
Any areas of this zip code to particularly AVOID buying a house in? (i.e. obviously fucked up crack blocks/projects etc) I've been looking at interesting houses online in Midtown but I'm not familiar enough with the residential neighborhoods on either side of Union Ave. Not looking to move for a couple of years yet but I'd like to learn more now about your fair city anyways as I've always enjoyed my visits--thanks gang.

Posted: Sep 15, 2009 11:16 pm
38104 is for suckers. New Spain is where it's at!
Posted: Sep 15, 2009 11:21 pm
That'd be awesome, by the way.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 12:14 am
I live in CY, but I don't live in 38104 (there are a couple blocks in 38114, our comps are lower for it). One thing to keep in mind is: how good of a drunk driver are you? Chances are that anyplace you'd want to drink is in 38104 but our grocery stores and hospitals are shit.

Even if you're a decent drunk driver however, one thing can be said about living in/near 38104 is that if you ever get too drunk to drive, you can still walk home with your bass, single fifteen inch bass cabinet with 3 wheels and no shirt in about an hour.

There are plenty of zip codes in Memphis that are great where you can get more house for what you can get in 38104. I like south of the Botanic Gardens or over where saipas and ryan live. New Spain has Jerry's!
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 1:17 am
As a Wisconsinite I'm licensed to drive drunk (as is the rest of the state). Basically it's down to do I wanna trade brutal summer for brutal winter--oh, you guys got some decent Thai restaurants, right?

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 6:29 am
I live in 38107 (north of N. Parkway, south of Jackson), and it's not half bad as far as crime and what you get for the money. I hear gunshots every night, but they're at least two blocks away...

If I did it again (and I was *this close* over the summer), I would look exactly where Sam said: Along Park from Perkins to about White Station or even as far east as Kirby.

My favorite Thai is Emerald, which is closer to this part of town (East Memphis) than to Midtown.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 6:37 am
What I like about that part of town is this: It's convenient as hell to 240 and 40, and thus every part of town--including Midtown and Downtown; you can find some rad mid-century homes--and way more for your money; easy access to good grocery stores and every kind of shopping from boutique to big box. Safety plays only a small part in my mind as I feel that stuff can happen anywhere.

That said, I would miss my cute little bungalow, especially since we're doing major remodeling and renovations over here. It's been plaster dust city since July. Hell-o closets!
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 8:14 am
I don't think it's as easy as narrowing it down to zip codes. Within the same zip code you'll find all kinds of livin'. You'll have a few blocks of really nice homes, a few blocks of nothin' fancy, and then a few blocks of ghetto. Then all of a sudden you're back in a nice neighborhood.
You pretty much need to come spend some time here looking at houses and see how it breaks down.
If you're not planning on moving for a couple of years, you've got plenty of time to come visit. Set up an appointment with a realtor and come spend a weekend looking at houses. Don't cost nothin'.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 12:59 pm
Aw, what do you know? Our little 38117 on a budget 'hood is getting love from the Midtown crew? I love it! Finally, a mutual admiration society.

Our neighborhood is called Sea Isle, but the whole area is better known as Colonial Acres. It is a post WW2 (early 50's) ranch tract development where you can get a fantastic home, in great shape and with all the pluses mentioned by Miss Faye and SAMBEAUX for around $90-$125K. In fact, a killer 1500 sq ft, 3 bedroom, 2.5 bath, fireplace, completely redone ranch on a corner lot of our street went for $124K a month ago. We got our 978 sq foot, 3 bed/1 ba with a massive backyard for around $90K a year ago. The boundaries are basically what Miss Faye said, but I've found a few good spots east of White Station and south to Quince. Ideally, you would want to get in west of Estate, north of Quince, south of Park (good luck on cheap north of park) and east of Perkins.

The pluses: More/newer home for money spent; the aforementioned cool midcentury ranch styles; two great neighborhood parks; easy to zip onto I-240 and get anywhere; still a nice, quiet neighborhood feel but close to any kind of retail/health care/good schools/food; more true diversity than we ever get credit for--example: Our street includes original owners on oxygen tanks who will watch your property like hawks, Mexican family, black family, grad school students from U of M, house of recent grads of Mississippi State living in the big city, young attorneys, nosy middle-aged foxy lady, The Guys in Some Shitty Band and apparently, some teacher who sells her prescription pills (hey, I've just heard the rumors!) and more than a few young white families. And us.

The best plus? The seriously different vibe due to the relative lack of crime going on. I know several women who run--for health--in the morning before the sun comes up. Alone.

The minuses: The drive home that looms before you if you got drunk in Midtown or Downtown. It isn't far (15 minutes max) but well, it isn't fun either. The fact that Cooper-Young is in Midtown. Not many big front porches (Back patios though? Check). And finally, most of your friends live in Midtown still. That is about all I can think of that I miss about giving up Midtown.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 2:52 pm
i'll sell you my house right now. it's on a really nice block in Central Gardens (38104) bound by Union & Peabody and McLean & Lemaster. Walking distance from Schnuck's, Rite Aid, Hi Tone, Murphy's, Lamplighter, KFC.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 4:56 pm
Thanks for the info everyone!

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 5:41 pm
One more minus that at least Sam can vouch for--the "East Memphis Cunt" factor cannot be underestimated when shopping, eating out and taking the pets to the vet. Usually it is at its high point between 11am-6pm.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 6:38 pm | Edited by: littlemisslinda
dont rule out north midtown, is that 38104?
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:15 pm
I can't believe I'm agreeing with Sassypants but if I was to ever buy a home in Memphis it would be around the Colonial Acres area. The drive isn't too bad if you don't drive like a jerk and aren't black.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:23 pm
dont rule out north midtown, is that 38104?

yes it is, don't know how faye managed a 38107, she's about 3/4 blocks away
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:24 pm
North Midtown - 38112. I'm representin'.
Near the 38107....my favorite hoods.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:35 pm
Yeah I seem to remember people telling me that Memphis is very different block-to-block. When we crashed at Alicja's house on Tutwiler several years back I woke up early and took Nico for a walk and the looks from the locals made me wonder if I'd sprouted an extra eye in my forehead overnight. Her block has all those really interesting little houses with the big yards in back then I turn the corner and it's the fuckin Twilight Zone. This is part of what attracts me to Memphis...well that and my plan to sell a Monorail to the city.

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:42 pm
Look at this shit--why don't I just throw this one on my credit card so I've got a steady place to crash while I look for my REAL house? Goddamn--these prices do not compute.

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 7:46 pm
Because your shit will be stolen when you're out, and your body will be killed when you're home.
There's a reason it's that cheap. I found that out when I was looking for a house - spent a lot of time driving to places that looked fine on realtor.com, but looked scary in person.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 8:00 pm
When we crashed at Alicja's house on Tutwiler several years back I woke up early and took Nico for a walk and the looks from the locals made me wonder if I'd sprouted an extra eye in my forehead overnight. Her block has all those really interesting little houses with the big yards in back then I turn the corner and it's the fuckin Twilight Zone.

she's about 2 blocks from me, probably the other way from the direction you walked
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 8:00 pm
Naturally. The thing is, in Milwaukee the only thing you could buy for $4900 and live in is a car. Even boarded up crackhouses in the ghost town ghetto are no cheaper than $25,000. Hey, someone's gotta be the first to gentrify, right?

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 8:07 pm
Bruce--so is it preferable to be east of Watkins? I'm seeing actual nice houses on Maury, Stonewall, Willett, McNeil etc...

Posted: Sep 16, 2009 9:03 pm
yeah probably, other side is still a little rough though i know others who live over there beside alicja, maybe just slightly worse then it was on this side when we first bought here, but it's so subjective. like it was said, come down and look around
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 10:04 pm
you guys got some decent Thai restaurants, right?

No. We have a decent Thai restaurant (Emerald).

We've got plenty of decent Vietnamese though.
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 10:52 pm
Sam, what's wrong with cock alley?
Posted: Sep 16, 2009 10:55 pm
Quit picking on miss linda, Wire.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 2:06 am
so is it preferable to be east of Watkins? I'm seeing actual nice houses on Maury, Stonewall, Willett, McNeil etc...

yes. it is. don't go west of there or you'll be in a semi-yuck neighborhood. maury, stonewall, mcneil, garland are all pretty good streets. i live on willett and like it. just stay north of poplar on those streets and you're fine. stonewall isn't bad either way, but you don't wanna go on parts of clark, mcneil or garland if you're south of poplar.

it's a weird street by street thing around here. there's some shitty parts of midtown where there are some crappy apartment complexes that you don't wanna really be around. but then around the corner from those places, you'll find some really beautiful houses.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 8:39 am
North of Poplar. South of Jackson. The further East the better...for that neighborhood. Oh, and West of Trezevant/East Parkway.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 9:09 am
Sam, what's wrong with cock alley?

In Germantown? Germantown isn't Memphis.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 9:28 am
I love the Cooper Young neighborhood. I have lived there for a little over ten years and it has changed and grown so much since we moved in. It continues to get better and better every year. I can honestly say that I have not had any major problems. Only a car broken into a couple of times because I stupidly left stuff in plain sight and a bike stolen (kids most likely). When I lived in Cordova my apartment got broken into twice in one year! While we were in bed alseep no less.
I know CY has it's share of bad shit but like anywhere else you have to be aware of your surroundings.
I love my hood! I reccomend it. But definitely come and spend some time checking places out. Talk to the neighbors if you can.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 10:13 am
38107 represent!

I love my neighbor-hood. I'm seriously considering finally purchasing here. The key is to live just on the edge of sketch.
Posted: Sep 17, 2009 3:50 pm
Best neighborhood in town!
Posted: Sep 18, 2009 11:36 pm
The key is to live just on the edge of sketch.

Extremely well-put and I wholeheartedly agree. I like to ride my bike to bars and shows and parties when the weather is nice so I think East Memphis is probably further away than I'd want to be. That Rhodes College area seems to have interesting houses and very realistic prices. Now I just need to know if there's a Tops in 38107...and also are all the upscale grocery stores out in the burbs? I can't go back to a shitty grocery store with no selection! Don't need Whole Foods organic b.s.--just a great deli/bakery/meats etc.

Posted: Sep 19, 2009 12:36 am
topps is right there
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 8:19 am
You'll be perfect over in 38107, esp. if you are into biking; before we found this place, that was our other alternative.

How much are those houses on Hallwood going for these days anyway?

I think it is safe to say a Tops is fairly close to anywhere, wherever you live!
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 8:51 am
I live in the Rhodes college area. There are really nice little houses to be had north of Jackson (between Jackson and Vollintine) on Sheridan, Oakmont, Kensington, and Hawthorne. Nice houses near Snowden School in the neighborhood south of Jackson and west (and east too) of McLean off Tutwiler. The houses north of Jackson on the streets I mentioned are actually nicer than some of that area, though.

Schnucks (I guess that's what they call it) in Midtown has a great bakery and pretty good meat. I never go there because...well, because. Cafe Eclectic across from Snowden on McLean now has a bakery too.
The Poplar Plaza Kroger has a great deli, and it's only about 10 minutes east of me.
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 10:46 am
Schnucks is a perfectly fine Grocery store. It's nothing fancy, but it's far from bad. If you need to have something a little better Wild Oats is only a 10-15 drive. The Piggly Wiggly while seeming a little scary actually has a pretty great selection of Mexican fare, and is not bad for the regular stuff too.
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 3:36 pm
cock alley........

where's that!?!?!?
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 5:08 pm
Schnucks is a perfectly fine Grocery store.

...for me to poop on. That grocery store sucks. You'll go up there for some fennel or some shit and they'll be out. Or out of cilantro. Shit, they don't even know what sobe noodles are. And the ladies at the meat counter -don't get Richard Martin started!

I've found that Jay Reatard's Ghetto Krogers is a pretty good grocery store... but kind of ghetto.
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 5:12 pm
cock alley.......

where's that!?!?!?

It's in one of those strip malls with a Papa Johns and a dry cleaners or something. The owner/head chef used to be a civil engineer until he "gave it all up" for a life of thai cooking. His wife is a round eye. Apparently, both of them will sit down at your table and talk to you while you eat, whether you want them to or not.
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 5:42 pm
I don't know what sobe noodles are, either, but I DO know that ladies don't belong behind a meat counter because I like my butchers to be 300-pound farmboys covered in blood and that shit just ain't ladylike. Are there good Mexican restaurants around town? Also is the eastern end of South Parkway close enough to CY to be decent or is it all pretty ghetto? I found a house online that I couldn't believe was as cheap as it was, but then when I looked up South Parkway I found a youtube video by something called a Gangsta Blac called 'S.O.U.T.H. Parkway' which, I must say, gave me pause regarding the aforementioned thoroughfare.

Posted: Sep 19, 2009 7:37 pm
Also is the eastern end of South Parkway close enough to CY to be decent or is it all pretty ghetto

Pretty ghetto.
Posted: Sep 19, 2009 7:52 pm
eastern end of South Parkway

You don't want to live there.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 1:28 pm
Re: S. Parkway: That neighborhood tucked in there on the western end coming over the tracks from CY on Cooper (can't remember what it's called right now)=not bad and affordable. I've known a few people who lived there.

Ryan-if you're serious about buying in Memphis, get a six-month lease somewhere and get to know the neighborhoods and the boundaries of where you should/want to live in them.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 3:27 pm
Yeah, what is that neighborhood called back there off South Parkway? It is pretty ghetto, but there are some great homes back there, even a couple of midcentury ones, if I recall correctly, mixed in with some massive 20's bungalows.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 5:11 pm
then when I looked up South Parkway I found a youtube video by something called a Gangsta Blac called 'S.O.U.T.H. Parkway' which, I must say, gave me pause regarding the aforementioned thoroughfare.

south parkway is fucked up, and there's no reason for anyone to be there.

I get lost on that street every time and in the past, it usually resulted in a trip to the friendly neighborhood gas station.

Posted: Sep 20, 2009 5:18 pm
I've found that Jay Reatard's Ghetto Krogers is a pretty good grocery store... but kind of ghetto.

At this point in time kroger is the best grocery store in midtown.
which speaks volumes about how shitty shnucks and the pig have become.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 6:50 pm | Edited by: Dutchman
"Jay Reatard's Ghetto Krogers" is a pretty good name for a band, particularly if Jay Reatard isn't in it, otherwise "The Ghetto Krogers" will suffice.

Miss Faye--I think I'll probably be more likely to have what I want in a home figured out in advance so I can move right in when I come down. I'll probably make a couple visits down to check out streets and homes and my plan is to sell my house up here to one of my friends with all furniture in place so I basically just have to pack my records and some clothes and then move light so I can easily start fresh in Memphis buying furniture to suit my new house rather than having to rent a U-Haul to drag all this Salvation Army shit I've got down there, which would be pointless. That was a long sentence.

Is there an abbreviation for Memphis that people use like MPH or something?

Also, the Internet told me that Tom Cruise's house in 'The Firm' is in Belle Meade, not outside the ring. Not that I know a damn thing about Belle Meade but...

Posted: Sep 20, 2009 7:10 pm
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 7:51 pm
The Tom Cruise house is just up the street from me. Of course, this is Memphis, so it gets a LOT nicer (or worse) when you go a half mile in any direction.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 8:16 pm
Please don't refer to Memphis as Memfrica, only Rumpleforeskin thinks that's funny.
Posted: Sep 20, 2009 10:21 pm
we like memphris
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 1:45 am
i went to a bbq at a friend's house the other night that was on barksdale just north of jackson. it was really nice up there! she said there's 4 houses for sale right now on their block. i think they got their house for a pretty good deal. it's 38107 up there
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 3:27 am | Edited by: Koonye West
only Rumpleforeskin thinks that's funny

Imma let you finish Spermbeaux but Rumpleforeskin has been insulted much better by Rich Riggler. PS : your bass is really embarassing, only the ineptitude of tour playing it is worse.
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 8:49 am

Imma let you finish Spermbeaux

Thanks Brian!
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 9:35 am
April--Yeah I really like the houses I've seen in that area plus being close to Jackson Ave means super easy freeway access since I imagine my job (truck driver) is probably gonna end up being based outside the city in the suburbs somewhere. Bear Proof Suit is probably gonna come back to Memphis next June, our songs still have a lot of chords.

Posted: Sep 21, 2009 9:59 am
s there an abbreviation for Memphis

we like memphris

That's actually longer, dipshit.
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 9:59 am
If you drive LTL then it'll be in the city by the airport.
Posted: Sep 21, 2009 10:02 am
yeah but it was in reference to
Please don't refer to Memphis as Memfrica, only Rumpleforeskin thinks that's funny.
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